Monkey Gorge
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| My favorite wave in Japan. |
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| Photo of the Day!!!! |
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| Photo of the day!!!!!! |
wake surfing on Ikeda lake.
Bali 2014
10 years ago
My Thailand blog, タイのブログ
Tuesday, September 18, 2012
Monday, September 17, 2012
Bangkok 2012
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJh90etublg
Here is the link to my Bangkok movie
August 9th
On this day I woke up early to the sound of Na Oan's dog's barking and birds chirping outside her house. I packed my bags the night before so I could lazily enjoy my last morning in Southern Thailand. They made me a wonderful breakfast. Na Oan's sister had to go to work in the morning and she wanted to show me off to her coworkers. We drove around the different regional Board of Education buildings meeting several people who all had big smiles on their faces. They were so kind and excited to meet me.
We ate lunch at a small restaurant near her main office. The food was one of the spiciest meals I've ever ordered at a restaurant as far as I can remember. But mercifully the nerves in my tongue have become dulled to the chili peppers effects and I could finish my meal with ease. This was one of my most proud accomplishments. I think what I enjoyed most about this meal and other Thai meals is the large portion of raw green vegetables they serve with chili sauce. In Thai culture as well as Chinese culture you have "hot foods" or foods that heat the body when eaten; no relation to spicy foods really, and you have "cold foods." Cold foods consist of most raw green vegetables, red wine, melons and cantaloupes. A good balance of these foods is recommended for a healthy diet. That's why they serve these vegetables as a snack before and after your meal. I really couldn't imagine a Thai meal without them.
At about one Na Oan took me to the bus stop. It was sad parting ways with her and her' sister. They were so kind to Polly and I and I was so happy they took me in like they did. It showed me a Thailand reserved for those who either live there or have family there. Without them my trip wouldn't have turned out as blissfully enjoyable as it had. I was so grateful. I expressed my gratitude in the form of a big bear hug and then I waited for my bus inside the Krabi bus station.
I took the bus to the city of Surat Tani. Surat Tani is known as the gateway to the eastern coast's many world class dive sites and coral fringed islands. The city itself is actually very charming. It has no real draw to tourists other than being a transfer spot to other destinations. What it lacks in attractions it makes up for in charm. The architecture is cool and there are schools and students everywhere. I think on the second bus ride, the one from the bus station to the train station, I saw over ten large high schools, universities and Junior High's.
At the train station I bought my ticket for Bangkok. I reserved a sleeper car costing me about $20. I had lots of time to kill before my train came so of course I went looking for some food and in particular Durian. I found a huge mid-day market full of street foods. I walked about a Kilometer gazing at all the different delicious options. The place was packed with people so I observed which stand attracted the largest crowd. As a rule of thumb these places are where you wanna eat. On the way back I started off with a bag of green curry. It was delicious. Then I had some fried banana type stuff and eventually I found my Durian. While waiting for the lady to prepare my durian a strange man came up to me and started yelling, "where you go! where you go!?" I looked at him and shrugge my shoulders saying, "I don't know!" Then I think I said something in Japanese. He then said "no!?" "yes!?" Confused, I said "no." He walked away briskly seeming satisfied with my answer. I looked at a young eight or nine year old girl next to me and simultaneously we shrugged our shoulders and laughed. The adults around us saw our little mutual gestures of humor and laughed. I think the guy was just crazy, maybe autistic.
While I was waiting for my train I talked to some German guys about my age. I had them try durian for their first time. One of them almost vomited and the other slowly finished his' fruit. I told him he will smell the durian fruit again and he will think of the strange taste. In order to make a final verdict against the durian fruit he will try it again to satisfy his curiosity. But by this time, I told him; he will be a durian eater like me.
I boarded my train at 7pm. In the coach next to me was this abnormal family. Well maybe not so abnormal in today's world but unique in their own way. There was a 65 or so year old Australian man, a 40 year old Thai woman and her 18 or so year old daughter. The two met on a dating site and have been together for three years since. The daughter loved her new father. The man spoke of his family in such heightening praise it made them seem like the pinnacle of Thai society. I liked them. They didn't might when I finished my durian on the train. The sun went down over the Thai country side and in the morning I would wake up to the streets of Bangkok.
August 10th
I arrived in Bangkok at around 9am. The city was surprisingly clean but excactly what I expected in therms of scale. The main train station is small. There are only eleven or twelve train terminals. Although it is small and quite old the station is very clean. It smells nice and is not as busy as I was expecting. My cabin neighbors pointed me to the underground metro subway, MRT entrance.
Bangkok built one of the best public transportation networks I've ever seen. The MRT runs underground and the BTS runs above. Both are incredibly efficient, clean and punctual.
I took the subway to Silam street. The Silam area is kind of Bangkok's financial center. High rises tower above the push cart food stall line streets below. Another surprising thing were the "no littering or get fined" signs posted everywhere. Five years ago Bangkok went through a bit of gentrification and clean up. Today you will be surprised how clean the city looks. Aside from the traffic my first impressions were of a safe and clean metropolis.
I couldn't find the hostel I had researched but nearby I found a quaint little youth hostel for cheaper. It is run by a kind Thai family who try to keep the place quiet for the guests. They try and restrict alcohol consumption in the rooms and they enforce their cleanliness and noise policy to a tee. I decided that this place was better for me. It would serve as a very nice home base for my daily explorations into the city.
I have a tradition when visiting a new city. I walk. I walk everywhere I can. Even in the blistering Thai sun and sultry heat I couldn't help imploring this habit of mine. However I did make use of the BTS and river boats. Ahh the river taxi's. They are the best thing Bangkok has to offer tourists. They travel to all points up and down the Chao Phraya river. I don't remember ever paying for one until the last day where I paid the fair out of guilt for riding free so many times.
My first destination in this unfamiliar city was the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. It was located in the historical center of the city which has no high rises. The only buildings that tower above the skyline in this area are the historic temples. The Temple of the Emerald Buddha, known in Thai as Wat Phra Kaew, is one of the most magnificent. Inside the main temple is the large jade Buddha statue so worshiped and adored by Thai's and Buddhists around the world. I paid my respects and even did a short sitting inside.
Afterwords I walked to the Grand Palace. The Grand Palace is the home of the Thai king and the royal court. Its the colorful administrative seat of government in Thailand. As a tourist attraction its pretty good. I found the architecture very pretty. When I was satisfied with sightseeing I took a river taxi back to the BTS stop and then took the BTS back to my hostel to shower up.
For dinner I ventured out into the streets of Silam. I found a great street food area full of people so I decided to order food here. I cant read Thai so I just pointed to what I wanted. The people were very patient about it. My first dinner in Thailand was a Tom Yam soup with vegetables and noodles. It was awesome. The guy making the soup was working so fast; cooking the soup, cutting vegetables and peeling shrimp. The guy made the soup with love and you could read it in his manerisms. He had pride in his' food and that's why so many people waited in line for it.
Its hard to describe the plethora of smells in Bangkok. Most are pleasant. Its an odd olfactory bouquet of flowers, incense, car fumes and food but I learned to appreciate it. I guess every city has it's own scent. Bangkok's scent was highly tinged with food smells so maybe that's why I like it so much.
At night I just went to bed early. I didn't get a good rest on the train and now I have a cozy bed perched seven floors above the busy streets below.
August 11th
Today I woke up at 6am and headed out toward the BTS station. I walked around the river area before I boarded the river taxi. The taxi only had a few customers and even so I didn't have to pay. I got dropped off in Chinatown. Today I decided to walk the whole radius of the old city center. The sun was hot. Starting in Chinatown I walked through some cool neighborhoods. I ate at a small hole in the wall restaurant outside of Chinatown. They were very puzzled why I was there and so I gestured that I walked from the river area. They looked shocked and gave me extra food from the look of it.
I journeyed up a few small streets using the sun's possition as my compass. I was looking for Wat Saket or "The Golden Mountain." It sticks out and soon I could see it's spires. I had walked about three or four kilometers already. The temple was full of Buddhist monuments and artifacts. The gardens surrounding the temple had large bells each equipped with mallets. The perpetual rings echoed throughout the neighborhood. I even rang a few in observance of ritual.
Next to Wat Saket was another must see temple. The Loha Prasat or "metal castle" is located inside Wat Ratchanadda. The structure of the castle looks more like an eastern European castle than a Thai temple. The inside is adorned with meditation instructions and Buddhist statues. I really like this temple. The surroundings were full of meditation centers. Large groups of monks were walking around the area as well.
After I walked around the Wat Ratchanadda area I went to the Democracy monument, then to the Giant Swing and Wat Sutat. The temple’s construction was commissioned by King Rama I to shelter a bronze Buddha image dating back to the 13th Century. I thought the temple was beautiful, maybe my favorite. I liked the sweeping grand roof and beautiful murals.
My next stop was Wat Pho. Wat Pho is the largest temple in Bangkok and houses the famous "reclining Buddha." I was lucky because there weren't very many tourists. The reclining Buddha statue was grand and beautiful. I've seen its image in so many magazines, books and TV programs but to see it up close was something very special indeed. I spent about an hour walking around Wat Pho.
I headed back into Chinatown, another three or so Kilometer walk. I bought some street food, some AWESOME street food! I actually ate at several carts, sampling various Thai and Chinese foods. I am a foodie and somewhat of a street food connoisseur and Bangkok delivered on its reputation as a street food mecca.
Back at the hostel I met a traveler from Vietnam. He was cool so I invited him to come get dinner with me. We ate at a really nice but cheap Thai restaurant. Then we hung out in the Silam area for a bit. We talked about Vietnam and America, our travels, our family and our girlfriends. It turns out he is an economics student in London. Afterwords we headed back to the hostel and watched some Olympic boxing on TV with the hostel manager. I think Thailand was fighting Russia and Thailand won. The owner was yelling and cheering, it was pretty cool. At about midnight I passed out from utter exhaustion. I had walked over twenty kilometers around the old town of the city. My legs hurt but I felt good and full of delicious Thai food.
August 12th
I woke at 6am again and caught the train to the famous Chatuchak Weekend Market. I've never seen anything like it. A huge outdoor/ indoor market with all kinds of street stalls and venders selling everything from furniture to trinkets, clothing and food. I bought a shirt from a local artist. He goes to university and has his' mom and sister sell his stuff. I thought it was the coolest shirt I've ever seen. Everyone who has seen it agrees with me.
I think I drank about five Thai ice teas before lunch time. I felt like a crackhead with a sugar rush, way too much caffeine.. but Thai ice tea is the most delicious drink on the planet, hands down. Jacked up on caffeine I took the river taxi to Wat Arun. The famous 70 meter spire towers over the western bank of the Chao Phraya river. Climbing this massive temple was a feat in and of itself due to the severely steep angle of the steps. You could take one step and fall twenty feet vertically. The temple has beautiful Hindu and Buddhist carvings on it's exterior. The deep colors of the stained glass and Chinese porcelain radiate throughout the temple complex. Next I went and saw Wat Rakhang and the small Wat Suwan temples.
I think by this time the heat was getting to me and so I decided to head back. I ate dinner at another small Thai restaurant near my hostel. It was a bit expensive and full of people on dates. I felt kind of like a loner, or rather I felt people were thinking I was a loner but regardless the food was delicious. There was a Japanese man with a young pretty Thai girl sitting next to me. They were speaking Japanese freely as if nobody could understand. He was throwing all kinds of charming lines, even asking her if she wants to move to Japan with him. Her Japanese wasn't all that great and I couldn't help ease dropping into their conversation. I was laughing inside at his lack of romantic strategy and utter business man demeanor. Oh the power I have being bilingual, haha.
Tonight I decided to go find some kind of dance club. I wanted to see what the electronic music scene was like in Thailand. I love dancing to electronic house music. Its one of my favorite things to do. There is something about the power the DJ has with the audience.
I researched this club, I forgot the name, which was supposed to have the best underground house music in Bangkok. Also it was where all the University kids went to dance. I thought it would be cool and a good opportunity to meet people my age. I wore my new shirt, drank tons of water in preparation for dancing like a madman and set out to find the club. Its in Silam which is full of strip clubs and other seedier venues. I found where the map said it was but there was no sign for the place. The narrow alley where the club was supposed to be had a club, just not my club. There was house music playing but a different type. Not the underground funky music I like but some very village people-esque house music. There were all dudes. Big muscular dudes waiting outside and they looked pretty happy I showed up. hmmmm not my club. It must have been closed down and turned into a gay club. I was a bit bummed. I spent the rest of the night walking around the neon lit streets of Silam. Even though there was a seedy atmosphere in this place it was very safe. I never saw a cop and never heard of any body having any trouble. Nobody was very pushy trying to sell me things which I appreciated. I guess the electronic club experience was not to be. I didn't let it phase me and just called it a night.
August 13th
Again I woke up a 6am. There were two Japanese kids waiting downstairs for the hostel owner to come back so they could check in. I heard one of them say to the other, "go ask him, my English sucks..." Then one of them came and asked me in typical broken Japanese English when the owner was coming back. I told him in English and he went and told his friend in Japanese. Then he came back and asked me where I was from. I said Michigan in the USA. I played stupid and asked him where he was from. He said, "I'm from Japan." Then I put a shock to his face by asking him in Japanese which part of Japan he's from. It turns out he's from Chiba and his' friend is from Kagoshima. We talked for about a half an hour in Japanese, they were really cool.
I went to Bangkok station and boarded the train heading two hours north of Bangkok to the city of Ayatthaya. This is the ancient capital of Thailand and home to many ancient ruins. I sat next to a missionary couple from the U.S. They were really nice and shared some funny stories about Thailand. I got there at around 10am. The heat was blistering. I bought a huge bottle of water and set out to explore the ancient city. I didn't do what I should have done, which is to hire a motor boat and guide. What I did was way more adventurous though. I walked around the whole city. In this heat it was not a good idea; I had to rest a few times in the shade because I almost passed out. I did get to see most of the old temples which are all very very old. However because of the heat I was exhausted and I didn't get to see Wat chaiwatthanaram which is the most famous ruins in Ayatthaya. I boarded the train back to Bangkok.
Back in Bangkok I went to a few other neighborhoods and walked around. I decided to head to the Sukhumvit area to find some middle eastern food. It was still Ramadan so all I could get was a Turkish coffee. But after walking around a bit I followed a group of Indian men into a small Indian restaurant. I knew that if a group this big was going here at 4pm for an early dinner it had to be good, which it was.
Just for fun I walked through Bangkok's most seedy road, Soi cowboy. Its full of lady boy go go bars and adult themed shows. Not my cup of tea at all but I thought it would be fun to film the street with my Go Pro camera and so I did just that and headed back to the hostel.
August 14th
This morning I got up at about 6am again, a good habit when traveling. Sadly, I fly out of Bangkok today and this is my last day to explore. I took the river ferry back up into the old city, this time to the north and I explored the Koah San Road area, full of backpacking hippies; not worth my time. Then I saw the old Phra Sumen fort. This was pretty cool and very old. Next I walked along the river and bought some blessed charms and postcards for my coworkers.
When I got back to the Silam area I took the BTS to the Siam area of the city. I walked around a bit and went into some air conditioned malls. Siam square is a bit like Tokyo or London's famous neon lit shopping districts. When I got board of this area I walked to Bangkok's highest building, the Baiyoke Tower II. This 85 story building is the tallest in Bangkok. They had cool rotating observation deck at the top with a quirky star wars-esque interior design. The view was amazing!
When I got back to Silam I noticed the sky turning a somber color and ominous swirling black clouds started rolling in. The winds picked up and a downpour of rain drenched my clothes before I could find shelter. Lightning struck near the city and the thunder roared through the streets and vibrated the skyscraper windows. Suddenly a large swirl of clouds came down and hit a high rise construction site, blowing trash and pieces of paper into the air. I felt like a tornado was about to destroy the city. But just as quickly as it began it ended. No tornado in the news and a bit of a scare before my flight.
I returned to the hostel, showered up and prepared for my last meal in Thailand. I had my sights on a seafood place nearby which was rated among the best in Bangkok and also packed with people daily from 4pm onwards. I got in there at 4:30. It was packed with Japanese people. The food was expensive for Bangkok but oh man was it worth every bit. I ordered curried sea bass and their special crab. I spent about two hours devouring my meal at a snails pace. Then I made my way out towards the local brew pub. They had all kinds of German beers on tap. I didn't drink anymore than a beer or two this whole trip but before my flight I decided to drink my fair share of nice German beer. It was great and I was so full I felt like I weighed 70 kilo's more than I did in the morning. I took the BTS to the airport, got on my plane, and flew home to Japan still buzzed off German beer and with a mouth still smelling of fish curry.
Here is the link to my Bangkok movie
August 9th
On this day I woke up early to the sound of Na Oan's dog's barking and birds chirping outside her house. I packed my bags the night before so I could lazily enjoy my last morning in Southern Thailand. They made me a wonderful breakfast. Na Oan's sister had to go to work in the morning and she wanted to show me off to her coworkers. We drove around the different regional Board of Education buildings meeting several people who all had big smiles on their faces. They were so kind and excited to meet me.
We ate lunch at a small restaurant near her main office. The food was one of the spiciest meals I've ever ordered at a restaurant as far as I can remember. But mercifully the nerves in my tongue have become dulled to the chili peppers effects and I could finish my meal with ease. This was one of my most proud accomplishments. I think what I enjoyed most about this meal and other Thai meals is the large portion of raw green vegetables they serve with chili sauce. In Thai culture as well as Chinese culture you have "hot foods" or foods that heat the body when eaten; no relation to spicy foods really, and you have "cold foods." Cold foods consist of most raw green vegetables, red wine, melons and cantaloupes. A good balance of these foods is recommended for a healthy diet. That's why they serve these vegetables as a snack before and after your meal. I really couldn't imagine a Thai meal without them.
At about one Na Oan took me to the bus stop. It was sad parting ways with her and her' sister. They were so kind to Polly and I and I was so happy they took me in like they did. It showed me a Thailand reserved for those who either live there or have family there. Without them my trip wouldn't have turned out as blissfully enjoyable as it had. I was so grateful. I expressed my gratitude in the form of a big bear hug and then I waited for my bus inside the Krabi bus station.
I took the bus to the city of Surat Tani. Surat Tani is known as the gateway to the eastern coast's many world class dive sites and coral fringed islands. The city itself is actually very charming. It has no real draw to tourists other than being a transfer spot to other destinations. What it lacks in attractions it makes up for in charm. The architecture is cool and there are schools and students everywhere. I think on the second bus ride, the one from the bus station to the train station, I saw over ten large high schools, universities and Junior High's.
At the train station I bought my ticket for Bangkok. I reserved a sleeper car costing me about $20. I had lots of time to kill before my train came so of course I went looking for some food and in particular Durian. I found a huge mid-day market full of street foods. I walked about a Kilometer gazing at all the different delicious options. The place was packed with people so I observed which stand attracted the largest crowd. As a rule of thumb these places are where you wanna eat. On the way back I started off with a bag of green curry. It was delicious. Then I had some fried banana type stuff and eventually I found my Durian. While waiting for the lady to prepare my durian a strange man came up to me and started yelling, "where you go! where you go!?" I looked at him and shrugge my shoulders saying, "I don't know!" Then I think I said something in Japanese. He then said "no!?" "yes!?" Confused, I said "no." He walked away briskly seeming satisfied with my answer. I looked at a young eight or nine year old girl next to me and simultaneously we shrugged our shoulders and laughed. The adults around us saw our little mutual gestures of humor and laughed. I think the guy was just crazy, maybe autistic.
While I was waiting for my train I talked to some German guys about my age. I had them try durian for their first time. One of them almost vomited and the other slowly finished his' fruit. I told him he will smell the durian fruit again and he will think of the strange taste. In order to make a final verdict against the durian fruit he will try it again to satisfy his curiosity. But by this time, I told him; he will be a durian eater like me.
I boarded my train at 7pm. In the coach next to me was this abnormal family. Well maybe not so abnormal in today's world but unique in their own way. There was a 65 or so year old Australian man, a 40 year old Thai woman and her 18 or so year old daughter. The two met on a dating site and have been together for three years since. The daughter loved her new father. The man spoke of his family in such heightening praise it made them seem like the pinnacle of Thai society. I liked them. They didn't might when I finished my durian on the train. The sun went down over the Thai country side and in the morning I would wake up to the streets of Bangkok.
August 10th
I arrived in Bangkok at around 9am. The city was surprisingly clean but excactly what I expected in therms of scale. The main train station is small. There are only eleven or twelve train terminals. Although it is small and quite old the station is very clean. It smells nice and is not as busy as I was expecting. My cabin neighbors pointed me to the underground metro subway, MRT entrance.
Bangkok built one of the best public transportation networks I've ever seen. The MRT runs underground and the BTS runs above. Both are incredibly efficient, clean and punctual.
I took the subway to Silam street. The Silam area is kind of Bangkok's financial center. High rises tower above the push cart food stall line streets below. Another surprising thing were the "no littering or get fined" signs posted everywhere. Five years ago Bangkok went through a bit of gentrification and clean up. Today you will be surprised how clean the city looks. Aside from the traffic my first impressions were of a safe and clean metropolis.
I couldn't find the hostel I had researched but nearby I found a quaint little youth hostel for cheaper. It is run by a kind Thai family who try to keep the place quiet for the guests. They try and restrict alcohol consumption in the rooms and they enforce their cleanliness and noise policy to a tee. I decided that this place was better for me. It would serve as a very nice home base for my daily explorations into the city.
I have a tradition when visiting a new city. I walk. I walk everywhere I can. Even in the blistering Thai sun and sultry heat I couldn't help imploring this habit of mine. However I did make use of the BTS and river boats. Ahh the river taxi's. They are the best thing Bangkok has to offer tourists. They travel to all points up and down the Chao Phraya river. I don't remember ever paying for one until the last day where I paid the fair out of guilt for riding free so many times.
My first destination in this unfamiliar city was the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. It was located in the historical center of the city which has no high rises. The only buildings that tower above the skyline in this area are the historic temples. The Temple of the Emerald Buddha, known in Thai as Wat Phra Kaew, is one of the most magnificent. Inside the main temple is the large jade Buddha statue so worshiped and adored by Thai's and Buddhists around the world. I paid my respects and even did a short sitting inside.
Afterwords I walked to the Grand Palace. The Grand Palace is the home of the Thai king and the royal court. Its the colorful administrative seat of government in Thailand. As a tourist attraction its pretty good. I found the architecture very pretty. When I was satisfied with sightseeing I took a river taxi back to the BTS stop and then took the BTS back to my hostel to shower up.
For dinner I ventured out into the streets of Silam. I found a great street food area full of people so I decided to order food here. I cant read Thai so I just pointed to what I wanted. The people were very patient about it. My first dinner in Thailand was a Tom Yam soup with vegetables and noodles. It was awesome. The guy making the soup was working so fast; cooking the soup, cutting vegetables and peeling shrimp. The guy made the soup with love and you could read it in his manerisms. He had pride in his' food and that's why so many people waited in line for it.
Its hard to describe the plethora of smells in Bangkok. Most are pleasant. Its an odd olfactory bouquet of flowers, incense, car fumes and food but I learned to appreciate it. I guess every city has it's own scent. Bangkok's scent was highly tinged with food smells so maybe that's why I like it so much.
At night I just went to bed early. I didn't get a good rest on the train and now I have a cozy bed perched seven floors above the busy streets below.
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| My nightly eagle's view and home base. |
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| Jackfruit |
August 11th
Today I woke up at 6am and headed out toward the BTS station. I walked around the river area before I boarded the river taxi. The taxi only had a few customers and even so I didn't have to pay. I got dropped off in Chinatown. Today I decided to walk the whole radius of the old city center. The sun was hot. Starting in Chinatown I walked through some cool neighborhoods. I ate at a small hole in the wall restaurant outside of Chinatown. They were very puzzled why I was there and so I gestured that I walked from the river area. They looked shocked and gave me extra food from the look of it.
I journeyed up a few small streets using the sun's possition as my compass. I was looking for Wat Saket or "The Golden Mountain." It sticks out and soon I could see it's spires. I had walked about three or four kilometers already. The temple was full of Buddhist monuments and artifacts. The gardens surrounding the temple had large bells each equipped with mallets. The perpetual rings echoed throughout the neighborhood. I even rang a few in observance of ritual.
Next to Wat Saket was another must see temple. The Loha Prasat or "metal castle" is located inside Wat Ratchanadda. The structure of the castle looks more like an eastern European castle than a Thai temple. The inside is adorned with meditation instructions and Buddhist statues. I really like this temple. The surroundings were full of meditation centers. Large groups of monks were walking around the area as well.
After I walked around the Wat Ratchanadda area I went to the Democracy monument, then to the Giant Swing and Wat Sutat. The temple’s construction was commissioned by King Rama I to shelter a bronze Buddha image dating back to the 13th Century. I thought the temple was beautiful, maybe my favorite. I liked the sweeping grand roof and beautiful murals.
My next stop was Wat Pho. Wat Pho is the largest temple in Bangkok and houses the famous "reclining Buddha." I was lucky because there weren't very many tourists. The reclining Buddha statue was grand and beautiful. I've seen its image in so many magazines, books and TV programs but to see it up close was something very special indeed. I spent about an hour walking around Wat Pho.
I headed back into Chinatown, another three or so Kilometer walk. I bought some street food, some AWESOME street food! I actually ate at several carts, sampling various Thai and Chinese foods. I am a foodie and somewhat of a street food connoisseur and Bangkok delivered on its reputation as a street food mecca.
Back at the hostel I met a traveler from Vietnam. He was cool so I invited him to come get dinner with me. We ate at a really nice but cheap Thai restaurant. Then we hung out in the Silam area for a bit. We talked about Vietnam and America, our travels, our family and our girlfriends. It turns out he is an economics student in London. Afterwords we headed back to the hostel and watched some Olympic boxing on TV with the hostel manager. I think Thailand was fighting Russia and Thailand won. The owner was yelling and cheering, it was pretty cool. At about midnight I passed out from utter exhaustion. I had walked over twenty kilometers around the old town of the city. My legs hurt but I felt good and full of delicious Thai food.
August 12th
I woke at 6am again and caught the train to the famous Chatuchak Weekend Market. I've never seen anything like it. A huge outdoor/ indoor market with all kinds of street stalls and venders selling everything from furniture to trinkets, clothing and food. I bought a shirt from a local artist. He goes to university and has his' mom and sister sell his stuff. I thought it was the coolest shirt I've ever seen. Everyone who has seen it agrees with me.
I think I drank about five Thai ice teas before lunch time. I felt like a crackhead with a sugar rush, way too much caffeine.. but Thai ice tea is the most delicious drink on the planet, hands down. Jacked up on caffeine I took the river taxi to Wat Arun. The famous 70 meter spire towers over the western bank of the Chao Phraya river. Climbing this massive temple was a feat in and of itself due to the severely steep angle of the steps. You could take one step and fall twenty feet vertically. The temple has beautiful Hindu and Buddhist carvings on it's exterior. The deep colors of the stained glass and Chinese porcelain radiate throughout the temple complex. Next I went and saw Wat Rakhang and the small Wat Suwan temples.
I think by this time the heat was getting to me and so I decided to head back. I ate dinner at another small Thai restaurant near my hostel. It was a bit expensive and full of people on dates. I felt kind of like a loner, or rather I felt people were thinking I was a loner but regardless the food was delicious. There was a Japanese man with a young pretty Thai girl sitting next to me. They were speaking Japanese freely as if nobody could understand. He was throwing all kinds of charming lines, even asking her if she wants to move to Japan with him. Her Japanese wasn't all that great and I couldn't help ease dropping into their conversation. I was laughing inside at his lack of romantic strategy and utter business man demeanor. Oh the power I have being bilingual, haha.
Tonight I decided to go find some kind of dance club. I wanted to see what the electronic music scene was like in Thailand. I love dancing to electronic house music. Its one of my favorite things to do. There is something about the power the DJ has with the audience.
I researched this club, I forgot the name, which was supposed to have the best underground house music in Bangkok. Also it was where all the University kids went to dance. I thought it would be cool and a good opportunity to meet people my age. I wore my new shirt, drank tons of water in preparation for dancing like a madman and set out to find the club. Its in Silam which is full of strip clubs and other seedier venues. I found where the map said it was but there was no sign for the place. The narrow alley where the club was supposed to be had a club, just not my club. There was house music playing but a different type. Not the underground funky music I like but some very village people-esque house music. There were all dudes. Big muscular dudes waiting outside and they looked pretty happy I showed up. hmmmm not my club. It must have been closed down and turned into a gay club. I was a bit bummed. I spent the rest of the night walking around the neon lit streets of Silam. Even though there was a seedy atmosphere in this place it was very safe. I never saw a cop and never heard of any body having any trouble. Nobody was very pushy trying to sell me things which I appreciated. I guess the electronic club experience was not to be. I didn't let it phase me and just called it a night.
August 13th
Again I woke up a 6am. There were two Japanese kids waiting downstairs for the hostel owner to come back so they could check in. I heard one of them say to the other, "go ask him, my English sucks..." Then one of them came and asked me in typical broken Japanese English when the owner was coming back. I told him in English and he went and told his friend in Japanese. Then he came back and asked me where I was from. I said Michigan in the USA. I played stupid and asked him where he was from. He said, "I'm from Japan." Then I put a shock to his face by asking him in Japanese which part of Japan he's from. It turns out he's from Chiba and his' friend is from Kagoshima. We talked for about a half an hour in Japanese, they were really cool.
I went to Bangkok station and boarded the train heading two hours north of Bangkok to the city of Ayatthaya. This is the ancient capital of Thailand and home to many ancient ruins. I sat next to a missionary couple from the U.S. They were really nice and shared some funny stories about Thailand. I got there at around 10am. The heat was blistering. I bought a huge bottle of water and set out to explore the ancient city. I didn't do what I should have done, which is to hire a motor boat and guide. What I did was way more adventurous though. I walked around the whole city. In this heat it was not a good idea; I had to rest a few times in the shade because I almost passed out. I did get to see most of the old temples which are all very very old. However because of the heat I was exhausted and I didn't get to see Wat chaiwatthanaram which is the most famous ruins in Ayatthaya. I boarded the train back to Bangkok.
Back in Bangkok I went to a few other neighborhoods and walked around. I decided to head to the Sukhumvit area to find some middle eastern food. It was still Ramadan so all I could get was a Turkish coffee. But after walking around a bit I followed a group of Indian men into a small Indian restaurant. I knew that if a group this big was going here at 4pm for an early dinner it had to be good, which it was.
Just for fun I walked through Bangkok's most seedy road, Soi cowboy. Its full of lady boy go go bars and adult themed shows. Not my cup of tea at all but I thought it would be fun to film the street with my Go Pro camera and so I did just that and headed back to the hostel.
August 14th
This morning I got up at about 6am again, a good habit when traveling. Sadly, I fly out of Bangkok today and this is my last day to explore. I took the river ferry back up into the old city, this time to the north and I explored the Koah San Road area, full of backpacking hippies; not worth my time. Then I saw the old Phra Sumen fort. This was pretty cool and very old. Next I walked along the river and bought some blessed charms and postcards for my coworkers.
When I got back to the Silam area I took the BTS to the Siam area of the city. I walked around a bit and went into some air conditioned malls. Siam square is a bit like Tokyo or London's famous neon lit shopping districts. When I got board of this area I walked to Bangkok's highest building, the Baiyoke Tower II. This 85 story building is the tallest in Bangkok. They had cool rotating observation deck at the top with a quirky star wars-esque interior design. The view was amazing!
When I got back to Silam I noticed the sky turning a somber color and ominous swirling black clouds started rolling in. The winds picked up and a downpour of rain drenched my clothes before I could find shelter. Lightning struck near the city and the thunder roared through the streets and vibrated the skyscraper windows. Suddenly a large swirl of clouds came down and hit a high rise construction site, blowing trash and pieces of paper into the air. I felt like a tornado was about to destroy the city. But just as quickly as it began it ended. No tornado in the news and a bit of a scare before my flight.
I returned to the hostel, showered up and prepared for my last meal in Thailand. I had my sights on a seafood place nearby which was rated among the best in Bangkok and also packed with people daily from 4pm onwards. I got in there at 4:30. It was packed with Japanese people. The food was expensive for Bangkok but oh man was it worth every bit. I ordered curried sea bass and their special crab. I spent about two hours devouring my meal at a snails pace. Then I made my way out towards the local brew pub. They had all kinds of German beers on tap. I didn't drink anymore than a beer or two this whole trip but before my flight I decided to drink my fair share of nice German beer. It was great and I was so full I felt like I weighed 70 kilo's more than I did in the morning. I took the BTS to the airport, got on my plane, and flew home to Japan still buzzed off German beer and with a mouth still smelling of fish curry.
Wednesday, September 5, 2012
Southern Thailand 2012
July 31st, 8am somewhere around the Malaysian border city of Kangar. It was hot and sunny outside but the air conditioning was incessantly filling my cabin with cold air. I had fallen asleep at a decent hour and the ride was very smooth. I woke up feeling fresh and in need to relieve myself. My glorious poo was cut short, Polly was yelling something like, "hurry up in there we have to go through customs!" I hate hurrying up these types of situations. Anyway the border crossing was smooth but our train had been taken somewhere far for what we presumed was maintenance. We waited for some time, maybe two hours. Once the train came back we loaded our things and headed toward our final stop at the Thai city of Hat Yai. I have to remark about the Thai trains. They are old, very outdated but very clean; the bathrooms are spotless 24/7. Plus you get to see a good amount of the country side.
We arrived in Hat Yai, Thailand a few hours late. We were supposed to take a bus to the town of Krabi much earlier but so it goes in Southern Thailand. Polly used her Thai to charm the bus operator's price down to about local standards. If it had been myself alone I would have had to pay about twice. I don't remember how much it cost but it wasn't much. We had some time to wait before the bus came so in normal glutton fashion I wanted to eat. My first meal in Thailand was spicy and delicious. I think I ordered a red pork curry.
The bus came and what was promised to be a three hour journey would end up taking over five. We made several stops which involved postal deliveries as well as passenger pick ups and drop-offs. We finally made it to our destination, Krabi. Polly's good friend Na Oan live's in this beautiful part of Thailand. Huge limestone cliffs covered in thick green vegetation dot the landscape like chess pieces on a chess board. The sound of Muslim calls to prayer echoes through the tropical air; this is a predominantly Muslim region of Thailand. On the ride north to Na Oan's house she explained in a very energetic and enthusiastic manner her families history; how they live now, why she's here and how grandiose their past social positions were. She comes from a family of royalty who used to own this entire region from Phuket to Krabi and maybe farther.
While she was telling us these stories I got lost staring at the huge old growth trees lining the road and imagining going back in time to when her family ruled and watching the numbers of these trees multiply exponentially until there are no more palm oil plantations to be seen. Then I come back to reality; back into the present, a time when most land in the tropics is used to grow the oil palm (Elaeis guineensis.) Thailand is no different and Na Oan owns her fair share of oil palms.
Na Oan's house is beautiful. Old, rusty, full of antique's but with an almost 1930's Mississippi like Southern charm. We spent our first night here. I slept like a baby.
August 1st
Na Oan hooked us up with a great deal for a boat tour. Polly had mentioned something about it but I tried my best to be as ignorant about our plans as I could. I figured I would just let Thailand surprise me, which it did in so many wonderful ways.
Wednesday morning we woke up at 6am to go give an offering of food to the local monks before departing from the harbor at around 8am, if I remember correctly. Well in short we cut it pretty close. On our way to the monastery we drove to the temple across the street from Na Oan. Polly's family and meditation group donated a good amount of money to build the temple. Their philanthropy resulted in a very beautiful temple. We sauntered around the premises for about fifteen minutes and then drove to the monastery. The huts and buildings of the monastery were ensconced within tall trees and high cliffs. We met some monks and people helping and we were brought to the hut of the head monk. He was an old man but with a nice smile. We prostrated and left the offering of fresh curry and rice on the floor in front of him. You are not supposed to make physical contact with monks and by leaving the food near his' feet it is a sign of offering and humility towards the practicing monk. We did a very short meditation inside a small cave. You could feel the good energy of the place. It was easy to meditate and find peace. I wished we could have stayed there longer.
We made it in time to catch our boat. Na Oan's sister's friend basically set us up on a tour of the outer islands for dirt cheap. Our captain was a fifty or sixty year old weathered but handsome Muslim boatman. His dialect was thick so it was hard for Polly to understand him; I couldn't understand anything. He drove us to some of the most beautiful islands and beaches I've ever seen. The boat engine had some trouble along the way but it added to the excitement. The waves were getting bigger. I sat up front for most of the journey to and from the islands. I could close my eyes and feel the sea breeze blowing my hair. The salt condensing on my skin. My mind clear and in the custody of the sea. This is when I am most happy. Its always been like this and it always will be. I think that's why I came to deeply admire our captain. He could tell I was a man of the sea as well and he looked at me like I was his' own son. He actually called Polly his daughter too. Its great to meet such amazing simple people who love their life's work and don't show any signs of aging.
August 2nd
We started Thursday off with a traditional Thai breakfast of soft white rice porridge and fresh fruit. We had to catch a ferry to Ko Phi Phi island at around noon. It was nice to lounge around for a while before departing. We were hoping the waves from the day before were softer today. The more I thought about the island the more I remember seeing post cards and travel documentaries of Ko Phi Phi. It is supposed to be one of the most beautiful islands in the world.
We arrived at the dock about an hour early. I had another light meal and some fruit. Thai fruits are unbearably delicious. To refrain from stuffing your face with all these various tree candies would be an ignominy.
The ferry ride was without any hitch. It lasted for about an hour and we got to see the beautiful islands jutting up out of the horizon like ghost ships setting sail. The winds were calm and the seas were blue.
We arrived on Koh Phi Phi in the early afternoon. To our delight we were greeted by dozens of tourists leaving the island, probably for the full moon party five to six hours west. Ko Phi Phi is normally packed with people. When the tsunami hit in 2004 the popularity of this islands was the reason so many people died here. We were happy to be as alone as possible here. The small streets were still full of people. Tourists, merchants and day workers fill the streets with well fed and tamed feral dogs and cats roaming around.
Our hotel was another thrifty add in to our tour package. Na Oan hooked us up. It was situated right by the beach and a few nice restaurants. We went around and explored the island. We had a boat tour organized ahead of time but because we came a day late we had to cancel it. So after taking in the beautiful and abnormally quiet atmosphere we decided to extend our stay a day. It was a wise choice. Today we decided just to explore the island and hike up to the famous look out on top of the mountain. We scheduled our boat tour for the next day and ventured to the mountain peak. It was hot and hiking in the mid day sun was a challenge. But we brought about a gallon of water between us. It took us about a half an hour or so to trek up the hike. The sun was intense. We found the main lookout points and even a few shops to buy water. We met a few people who gladly took our pictures in exchange for a friendly conversation. One man was from California. He was sailing up and down the coast of Thailand. He had some interesting stories to tell us, all very good. As far as the view I will again leave that description to the pictures themselves.
August 3rd
We woke up early and got ready for our boat ride. There were about 20 people on our boat and mostly couples. The most interesting people on the boat were a family of Brazilians. They were a bit exuberant at times but always cheerful; they brought a good energy to the boat. Their were six of them; two daughters, two sons, a mother and a father. The oldest son had to be about thirty-five so maybe he wasn't a son after all. The character who stole our attention was the dad. He was wearing the tightest black speedo which highlighted his beer belly. Every time he bent over the whole boat erupted in laughter but he didn't seem to mind or notice, he was proud and on vacation.
The trip was amazing. We were taken to several top snorkeling sights where I got to chase fish at the bottom of the sea. I even found myself at the same depth as a team of scuba divers. They were shocked to see a man with a snorkel that far down. Polly called me a Flounder. I feel an otter sometimes because I like to mimic their playfulness in the water. The corals were breathtaking too. The first place we stopped at was "monkey beach." The name speaks for itself; tons of monkeys on a beach. The boats pull up to the monkeys and they play with the tourists. I got pissed on actually. There is nothing more humbling than to be pissed on by a monkey. There are many memorable moments from this outing. One of which was the tsunami evacuation poster. Actually there were many but one I found very interesting. It had been bleached by the sea salt and made ineligible. Any trace of the evacuation route was erased and the only thing that could be made out was the word tsunami.
The last stop was the famous beach called Ma Ya Bay. It is best known to be where they filmed the movie "the beach" with Leonardo Decaprio.
After our boat trip we watched the sunset and ate dinner at a small local restaurant. Polly had a long chat with the owners and especially one of the waiters. He had been a monk and is now working to support his family. He was a very nice dude and according to Polly a very hard working practitioner of meditation. I wished I knew Thai so I could chime in. After dinner we bought some fruit for breakfast the next morning. I of course bought some Durian. I love Durian. It smells very pungent yet it tastes like heaven in pudding form.
August 4th
This morning we boarded the ferry back to the mainland. Today we decided to stay at Na Oan's house another night. She set us up with a cheap Thai massage which of course hurt. I am strong but not so flexible so when someone gives me a deep tissue massage it amplifies the pain. But the ladies were very kind and they had me try all kinds of sour fruits they picked from their garden. Before our massage however she took us to the national park near her house. She told us stories about swimming in the rivers here when she was a kid. I guess there used to be cobras and tigers in the premises. Anyways this national park was something out of a Robert Louis Stevenson book. A series of jungle trails and rivers, waterfalls and cliffs. It was so green, so peaceful. I was to find more surprises a few days later.
Hanging out at Na Oan's house was one of the highlights of the trip. Her and her sister fed us like royalty. Her family came over too. We met her Niece and Nephew; nice kids in their late teens early twenties. They all helped prepare food. The dinner this particular evening was high in pork and very tasty. The vegetables were just tree leaves picked from the tree growing in their back yard. They were so good. You used them as a wrapping for a meaty slaw type dish. Polly and Na Oan had a heart to heart conversation for a few hours so I used that time to organize my schedule for Bangkok. The thought of traveling through Thailand without Polly was vexing. I will loose my companion and translator so I had to be as informed as ever about the logistics of my upcoming solo venture.
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| Na Oan |
August 5th
Na Oan's niece and nephew came with us to Phuket. We were glad to have them tag along for the car ride. On the way we stopped by a local fruit stand and bought over twenty mangosteens and a fresh Durian. During the car ride I chose to listen to music and get lost in the country side while the others spoke Thai. Polly had taught them some basic meditation the night before while I slept. I guess they were very interested. Its rare in Thailand for a young person to be so dedicated to the practice of meditation. Therefore people like Polly are rarities, even in Thailand. Polly makes it very easy to understand any lesson she teaches. She has a way of easing you into the lesson and letting your curiosity find its way out of you which she then grabs a hold of and runs with. She obviously sparked a bit of curiosity in these kids and I think Na Oan was very happy.
We arrived in Phuket at around two. It takes Thai people an extra two or three hours to discuss the arrangement and make sure its comfortable. We were shown two places; the first one was too touristy; we didn't care about a pool, I just wanted to go swimming in the ocean already... The second was, well again I will let the pictures and video speak for themselves.
Right away we rented boogie boards from the hotel and used them at the beach in front of our bungalow. The waves were not good at all, actually un-surfable with a normal surfboard. Polly had trouble with the boogie board. She thought surfing was much easier. She gets frustrated at things she's not good at right away, her temperament in these situations is kind of like a straight A honor student who got a B on a test. I thought it was adorable. I caught a few waves. I was actually having fun trying to find ride-able waves. The ocean felt good. It always feels good. Time flys when I'm in the sea.
We were told the woman who runs the restaurant at our beach bungalow was an amazing cook. The only problem was she closed shop at around five so we had to find another option for dinner. We found a nice restaurant at the top of the look out point above our bungalows. Before eating we watched the sunset and cracked open a Durian to the revulsion of the hoards of sunset watchers around us. We both thought this part of Phuket island looked a lot like Southern California. We entertained ourselves at the restaurant. I think what I enjoyed most of all about the South-east Asia trip were the long conversations with Polly. Her and I are like best friends on a camping trip. Our conversations are always of value both in time and content and are things I cherish.
August 6th
This morning we ate at the bungalow restaurant. We had some traditional Thai porridge and some of the mangosteen fruit we bought earlier. Mangosteens are so tasty and healthy! After breakfast we rented a motorbike. It was my first time, well second time riding one. Polly was nervous but I was confident after taking it for a test run. We put on our shnazy red helmets and embarked on our very first solo road trip. Our destination was a beach where we could rent surf boards. We first stopped by the famous Kata beach but found it too touristy and lacking in waves. We drove back to Nai Harn beach which is closer to our beach. The views along the way were stunning with elephants and elephant crossing signs to boot.
We found what we were searching for at Nai Harn beach. We met a French guy who had surfboards to rent. We rented a long board because I figured Polly could use it and so could I. I had Polly go out first. I think because of her swimsuit and how frequently the waves were breaking she couldn't enjoy her second time surfing as much as the first in Indonesia. She was getting frustrated but kept trying and trying. Contrary to what she was feeling about herself at the time I was seeing a bit of improvement. I could see a level of comfort in the ocean that she exhibited while getting absolutely pounded by the waves. I think she could get very good with a bit more practice. Anyways I love seeing her surf. I got up on the board a few times but it was hard to find my balance on it due to the single SMALL fin. It was one of the most wobbly boards I've ever been on.
The rest of the day we just rode around on the motorbike and took in the sights. There is one thing I have to remark about. On the cliffs near our bungalow beach are several epitaphs all dedicated to different people who died during the 2004 tsunami. It was sobering snorkeling and swimming in a sea where so many thousands of people died. As grim as it is to think about its important to consider when your in a place that so resembles paradise. No matter where you are in this world there are forces beyond your control that can take you from this life in an instant. These forces must be respected and understood to the best of one's ability.
On this day Polly and I parted ways. She was scheduled to fly back to Los Angeles in the evening while I will continue on to Bangkok. We tried not to think about the inevitable and made the best of our day. We went snorkeling and kayaking near our bungalow. We went on a little motorbike ride again. We had a good day. She spent an hour packing and got in a taxi bound for the airport. I spent the night chasing crabs on the reef and actually had a nice night looking at stars and drinking a beer on the beach. I was sad but I still had a week to go. Polly was the perfect travel partner and of course I love her dear. But my character requires me to travel solo sometimes, normally all the time. I knew this next week would be a feeling I know very well. To be at the mercy of the world with only yourself to rely on. This is the type of traveling that I know best. One more beer for good measure, a toast to the crab.
August 8th
I woke up at 8am and got a ride to the bus stop bound for Krabi. I was to spend one more night at Na Oan's house. The bus ride was very comfortable. Na Oan met me in downtown Aou Luk, the town where she lives. I had to borrow someones phone and knowing absolutely no useful Thai it was a challenge. Polly actually taught me the phrase "can I use your phone" which I didn't write down but I could almost remember. I finally remembered it enough to make a woman working at a food cart smile and hand me her phone. I called Na Oan and she picked me up.
I love Na Oan. This was our time to bond. I love her sister too. We had many great conversations and I listened to her stories like child listening to his' grandfathers war stories. I guess after traveling around this area for a few days my interest grew. I wanted to hear about her' childhood here, how much has changed and what is changing the most now. I was all ears and I think she appreciated the outlet.
She had to run some errands in the afternoon so I had her drop me off at the national park near her house. The park as I explained earlier is full of trails and rivers. This comes in handy when the ranger wants to charge you the fee and you brought nothing. I learned the art of playing the dumb foreigner card very well in Japan. This skill translates over to Thai as well. Luckily for me there was an entrance without anybody keeping watch and I just walked right in using the guise of "looking for the toilet." Anyways I found lots of surprises inside. I ventured into an area which we hadn't yet explored a few days earlier. There was a cave with an old Buddhist monument inside. Also it had a meditation area. I took advantage of it and sat for about 20 minutes. I then went swimming in the river. The water was cool and refreshing. There were a bunch of teenagers down stream jumping of trees into the pools. I saw them when I first came in, they were really nice. Na Oan picked me up about a half an hour later.
For dinner she made a huge pork, leaf vegetable and curry feast. It was so incredibly good. The rest of the night we just hung out and talked. Well in all honesty her sister and I ate while Na Oan talked... until very very late. I decided to meditate before bed in Na Oan's meditation room. It was a nice meditation. I had a lot on my mind and this was a needed mental refreshment. The next day would be long and arduous. The next week would be an adventure.
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